For those of you that need to make models for presentations, nothing is more frustrating than the glaring defects on a highly-visible part, particularly small parts that are tricky to Bondo. (Not to mention exposing yourself to the fumes that come off of your typical Bondo batch.)
Here Tested's Frank, who formerly worked at McFarlane Toys, shows us how combining superglue and baby powder can save your bacon:
Our tip on spraying thinned joint compound.
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I forgot to mention that this is really similar to the way you'd repair a surfboard. Deep dings have to get filled to replicate the shape of the original foam in that location. Mix Q-cell (aka microballoons) into standard resin and it makes a toothpaste-like putty that adheres to the foam really well. You still have to finish with fiberglass to prevent ingress. Check out Pilgrim's post on ding repair.
Somewhat related to this, while using stryene plastic. You can take an xacto and make very thin shavings off a sheet of scrap stryene. Once you have a small pile you can add a few drops of Weld-on adhesive (for stryene) and mix it together to create a plastic paste that you can use to fill seams of your models. You can create seamless white stryene models with this technique, and it helps when it comes to sanding and painting to create an even smooth finish as opposed to spackle or even bondo spot putty.
I've never heard the trick with the silicone pad, either. Is that so that the hardened material comes off easily? Is that well-known? I've only ever used newspaper or beer box to mix things on.
Looks like they're casting their own from mold compound. I just use the flat silicone baking sheets. A good flex or roll and most everything just pops off.