Kasugai Apple Gummy, 23-gram pack: I picked up these Japanese gummy candies at Yaohan Plaza, the New Jersey shopping center devoted to Japanese goods. There's nothing especially remarkable about either the product or its packaging, except for the following passage, which is the only bit of English found on the foil packet: "Kasugai's gummy tastes of apple juice and comes in an attractive small bag." It says that, of course, on the attractive small bag. If only American products could be this self-referentially brilliant.

(Yaohan Plaza, 595 River Rd., Edgewater, NJ 07020)

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